Written by Ben Chuang
Introduction to Denim Fabric
When I was a kid, I once famously declared that I hated jeans and would never wear them again. Perhaps they were stiff and uncomfortable from being air-dried on a clothesline, but my parents had a good laugh and never failed to bring up the incident at family gatherings since then.
As an adult, I admit that I was too quick to judge - after all, denim is such a versatile fabric, and without blue jeans, I'd lose about 70% of my wardrobe. Whether you're a denim aficionado or a denim hater like I was as a child, if you've ever been curious about what is denim or how it's made, this article is for you!
Denim is one of the most iconic fabrics in modern fashion, synonymous with checkered shirts, durability, and versatility. Originating as workwear for laborers and miners, denim has evolved over the centuries to become a wardrobe staple worn by people from all walks of life.
Let's explore the origins and evolution of denim, different types and treatments of the fabric, its cultural significance, and the latest trends in denim fashion.
A Brief History of Denim Fabric
Denim's history dates back to the late 16th century, with origins in the city of Nîmes, France. The fabric's name comes from the French phrase "serge de Nîmes," meaning "serge from Nîmes," referring to a sturdy twill fabric originally produced there.
Meanwhile, a similar fabric, "jean," was being produced in Genoa, Italy, and was popular among sailors for its durability. By the 18th century, denim had spread to various parts of Europe and eventually made its way to the United States, where it became associated with workwear, thanks to its ruggedness and longevity.
In the 19th century, denim fabric gained widespread popularity in the U.S. due to its use in work clothing, particularly among miners and laborers during the California Gold Rush. In 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patented the first pair of riveted denim jeans, solidifying denim’s place in American culture.
Over the years, denim evolved from being workwear to a fashion staple, particularly after the 1950s when jeans became a symbol of rebellion and youth culture. Today, denim is a global fashion phenomenon, worn by people of all ages and backgrounds.
"Denim." Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 30 Jun. 2024, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim.
The Evolution of Denim in Fashion
The rise of denim fabric from workwear to fashion icons is fascinating. Initially designed in the 19th century for miners and laborers due to its durability, denim was not always seen as a fashionable fabric. Its toughness made it ideal for hard labor, with brands like Levi Strauss introducing riveted denim jeans to reinforce seams for durability.
However, denim's status as a utilitarian fabric began to change in the 20th century. In the 1950s, denim jeans became a symbol of rebellion, popularized by icons like James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause. Denim quickly became associated with youth culture, freedom, and nonconformity.
As the decades progressed, denim fabric was embraced by various fashion movements. The 1970s saw flared denim become a part of the hippie aesthetic, while the 1980s and 1990s brought in ripped jeans and flannel shirts, symbolizing the punk and grunge subcultures.
By the 2000s, denim had cemented its place as a fashion essential. Today, it can be seen on the runway, in designer collections, and business casual denim wear. High fashion designers have elevated denim to new heights, creating luxury denim pieces that blend practicality with couture, further solidifying its status as a timeless fabric.
What is Denim Made Of
Denim fabric is a sturdy cotton twill fabric made primarily from cotton fibers. Its distinct texture comes from the way it is woven, where the weft (horizontal threads) passes under two or more warp (vertical threads), creating the familiar diagonal ribbing. Chambray, a fabric that resembles denim, is woven similarly.
Traditionally, denim was made entirely of cotton, but modern variations can include elastane for stretch or polyester for increased durability. While the most common color for denim is blue, achieved through a dyeing process involving indigo dyeing, denim can also come in various other shades and finishes.
The cotton used in denim production is typically spun into yarn, which is then woven using a twill pattern. This weaving method gives denim its signature durability and strength. Over time, denim garments become softer and more comfortable through wear.
Denim's rugged nature has made it a popular fabric for a wide range of clothing items, including jeans, jackets, and even ties.
What is Selvedge Denim
Selvedge denim refers to a specific type of denim fabric produced on traditional shuttle looms, which create tightly woven edges or "self-edges." These finished edges prevent the fabric from fraying and give selvedge denim its clean, sturdy finish.
The word "selvedge" comes from "self-edge," meaning the fabric has a natural edge that doesn’t require additional stitching or hemming. One of the most recognizable features of selvedge denim is the colored line, usually red or white, visible on the inside seams of cuffed jeans.
Selvedge denim is often associated with high-quality, artisanal denim, as it is typically produced in smaller batches. The traditional manufacturing process is slower and more labor-intensive compared to modern, mass-production methods, which is why selvedge denim is often more expensive.
Enthusiasts of selvedge denim value its craftsmanship and durability, as well as the unique way it fades and molds to the wearer over time.
What is Raw Denim
Raw denim, also known as dry denim, refers to denim fabric that has not undergone any washing or distressing processes after being dyed. Unlike pre-washed or pre-faded jeans, raw denim is typically stiff, dark, and unbroken when first worn.
The beauty of raw denim is that it allows wearers to create their own unique fades and distress marks based on their daily activities, as the fabric molds to the wearer's body and movement patterns. Over time, raw denim develops a personalized look that reflects the wearer's lifestyle, making each pair unique.
Because raw denim is untreated, it requires more care and patience from the wearer. Washing raw denim too soon can cause shrinkage and disrupt the natural fading process. Many enthusiasts recommend wearing raw denim for several months before washing to allow for more pronounced and personalized fades. Once broken in, raw denim jeans look great with a blazer.
The commitment to breaking in raw denim has garnered a devoted following, particularly among those who appreciate high-quality, long-lasting garments.
Types of Denim Finishes and Treatments
Denim fabric comes in a variety of finishes and treatments, each adding a unique texture, color, or appearance to the fabric. The most basic form of denim is raw or dry denim, which is untreated and unwashed after the dyeing process.
Raw denim is stiff at first and gradually molds to the wearer’s body, developing personalized fades over time. On the other end of the spectrum, there is pre-washed denim, which has undergone washing processes to soften the fabric and reduce shrinkage before being sold. This type of lightweight denim, is popular for its comfort and ease of wear right from the start, so you don't have to readjust and measure your pants size in anticipation of shrinkage.
In addition to pre-washing, other treatments like stone washing, acid washing, and sandblasting have become popular. Stone-washed denim, for instance, involves tumbling the fabric with pumice stones to give it a worn-in, vintage look.
Acid-washed denim fabric, often associated with 1980s fashion, uses chlorine or other chemicals to create a marbled effect. Sandblasting and hand-distressing techniques create worn-out or ripped looks, giving the fabric a lived-in, rugged appearance. These treatments allow denim to offer endless style variations, from clean and polished to edgy and rebellious.
Stretch Denim vs. Non-Stretch Denim
As denim has evolved, so has the way it is worn and experienced. One significant development in recent years is the introduction of stretch denim, a fabric that combines traditional cotton fibers with a small percentage of elastane (spandex or Lycra).
Stretch denim fabric provides greater comfort and flexibility, making it especially popular in women's jeans and slim-fit styles. This blend allows for a more tapered fit while maintaining the look of traditional denim. For many, stretch denim creates a balance between style and comfort, particularly for active or all-day wear.
Non-stretch denim, on the other hand, is made from 100% cotton and offers a more rigid, classic fit. While it may feel stiffer initially, non-stretch denim softens over time and molds to the body, offering a unique and personalized fit, especially for shorter men.
Many denim purists prefer non-stretch denim for its authenticity and durability, as it holds its shape better over time. Whether you opt for stretch or non-stretch denim often depends on personal style preferences, body type, and the desired fit.
Denim’s Role in Subcultures
Denim has played a significant role in various subcultures over the decades, becoming more than just a fabric but a symbol of identity and rebellion. In the 1950s, blue jeans were adopted by the "greaser" subculture, embodying a rebellious spirit against the conservative norms of the time.
The association of denim with counterculture only grew stronger in the 1960s and 1970s, as hippies embraced flared denim jeans as part of their anti-establishment aesthetic. The fabric’s versatility allowed it to fit seamlessly into different social movements and youth cultures.
The punk scene of the late 1970s and early 1980s took denim's rebellious image even further. Punks adopted ripped and safety-pinned jeans as a way to reject mainstream fashion.
In the 1990s, the grunge movement, led by bands like Nirvana, saw denim—especially in the form of ripped, distressed jeans—become a key element of the genre’s laid-back, anti-fashion ethos. Denim’s adaptability across subcultures showcases its enduring appeal and ability to represent various social and cultural movements.
Sustainable Denim
As the fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny over its environmental impact, denim is no exception. Traditional denim production is resource-intensive, using large amounts of water and chemicals. This has led to a growing movement toward sustainable denim, where brands are taking steps to reduce their ecological footprint.
Many companies now use organic cotton, which is grown without harmful pesticides, and recycled denim materials. Sustainable production methods for denim cotton like laser distressing and ozone treatments have also been introduced to minimize water usage and reduce harmful chemical runoff.
In addition to these methods, some brands are adopting closed-loop systems, where old denim is repurposed into new denim products. Sustainable denim is not just a niche market—major brands and retailers are increasingly adopting eco-friendly practices to meet the demands of environmentally conscious consumers.
As awareness grows about the environmental impact of fast fashion, sustainable denim is likely to become a core part of the industry’s future.
Denim Around the World: Cultural Variations
While denim originated in Europe and gained popularity in the U.S., it has now become a global fashion phenomenon. Different cultures and regions have their own interpretations of denim, influenced by local fashion sensibilities and traditions.
For example, Japan is known for producing some of the finest denim in the world. Japanese denim is often made on vintage shuttle looms, resulting in selvedge denim known for its durability and beautiful fading over time.
In contrast, in Europe, denim often takes on a more tailored and polished look. Italian denim brands like Diesel and Replay focus on modern cuts, innovative washes, and stylish finishes, creating denim that blends casual wear with high-end fashion.
Meanwhile, in the U.S., denim remains a symbol of rugged individualism, especially in Western and cowboy culture (these are our favorite cowboy hats for men). Whether in the form of raw, selvedge, or distressed styles, denim's appeal transcends borders, making it a truly global fabric with distinct regional twists.
Other Related Fabrics
If you're interested in learning about other fabrics, we also have great articles on the following topics:
These guides will help you understand the characteristics, strengths, and weaknesses of clothing made from each material.
Frequently Asked Questions about What is Denim
What is denim vs jeans?
Denim refers to the sturdy cotton twill fabric that is used to create a variety of clothing items, including jeans. It's a type of woven fabric where the weft passes under two or more warp threads, giving denim its signature diagonal ribbing. Jeans, on the other hand, are a specific type of garment made from denim, typically characterized by their five-pocket design and durable stitching. While jeans are commonly associated with casual wear, denim fabric can be used for jackets, shirts, skirts, and even accessories.
The distinction between denim and jeans can sometimes be blurred because jeans are the most iconic item made from denim. However, it’s important to note that denim refers to the fabric, while jeans refer to the specific style of pants.
Is denim 100% cotton?
Traditionally, denim was made from 100% cotton, which gave it its durability and rugged texture. Pure cotton denim is still widely used today, especially in vintage-style and high-end jeans. However, in recent years, many denim fabrics have incorporated cotton fiber with small amounts of synthetic fibers, such as elastane or polyester, to provide added stretch and comfort. This blend is particularly popular in skinny jeans and modern styles that require a bit of flexibility.
Despite the shift toward cotton blends, 100% cotton denim remains a classic choice for those seeking durability, structure, and a traditional feel. The addition of synthetic fibers allows for more variety in fits and styles, accommodating body shapes and comfort preferences.
What classifies denim?
Denim is classified based on its weaving pattern, specifically its twill weave where the weft thread passes under at least two warp threads, creating a diagonal ribbing on the fabric's surface. This unique weaving technique is what gives denim its durability and characteristic texture. The fabric is often dyed with natural indigo, or synthetic dyes, giving it its distinctive blue color, though denim can be found in a variety of colors.
In addition to the weaving pattern, weight and composition also help classify denim. For example, heavier denim is often used for more rugged clothing like jeans and jackets, while lighter-weight denim may be used for shirts or dresses.
Is denim just blue jeans?
Denim is most commonly associated with blue jeans, but it is far from limited to just jeans. While blue jeans remain the most popular and recognizable denim garment, denim is used in a wide array of clothing items such as jackets, skirts, dresses, and even accessories like bags. The versatility of denim fabric allows it to be used across different types of apparel, and it can be found in various colors, not just blue.
The association with blue jeans stems from the history of denim, which was originally dyed with synthetic indigo dye to create durable workwear pants. However, today denim is produced in a range of hues, including black, white, and gray. Denim is used far beyond jeans, especially in contemporary fashion, where it appears in innovative designs across many wardrobe staples.
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