Written by Wesley Kang

Many men find that choosing betweene oxford vs derby can be complicated and confusing and these dress shoes are no exception, but it doesn't have to be such a challenge.

There are so many different styles of men's footwear, and they all make different statements. Learning how to match your shoes adds in an extra layer of complexity as well.

The most basic thing to know is about dress shoes and when thinking about oxford and derby shoes is that oxford shoes are formal footwear and versatile, while derby shoes are slightly less so, but still serves a formal function.

Loafers and other slip-on shoes are even less formal, more comfortable and summery, while dress boots make a great casual wear piece and can make you look taller. Here's a few considerations when wearing loafers with a suit.

Derbies vs Oxfords

The oxford and derby shoe are two types of men’s formal lace-up shoes and go with formal attire. Oxford vs derby shoes share many of the same features, including a Goodyear-welt construction, leather sole, and a vamp. However, there are differences between the two shoe styles.

They may look really similar on the surface, but some important details differentiate the derby shoes and oxford shoes. 

What are Oxford Shoes

The oxford shoe is a classic, elegant style that originated in Scotland and considered the quintessential formal shoe. A good pair of black oxford shoes is pretty much any man's go-to formal dress shoe and should be worn with slacks.

Oxfords are sleek and clean in design and feature a closed lacing system with shoe flaps sewn under the seam directly below the laces and also bound together. High-quality oxford shoes also often feature a leather sole with these closed laces.

The question is how to wear your oxford shoes—their minimalism exudes a classic formality and elegance. Traditionally, oxford shoes with its closed lacing system and leather sole are worn with a 2 or 3-piece type of suit in an appropriate color. Pick out your oxford shoe in a color that will work for your outfit.

You can even choose leather shoes or suede and pair your oxford shoes with a bright-colored dress sock to add a little to your style. If you’re going for a business look though, you’ll want to choose darker colors, and stick to black leather shoes when you wear a tuxedo. 

What are Derby Shoes

The Derby shoe is a little bit more versatile and can be worn with a variety of clothes, including suits or jeans, but are traditionally worn with trousers and a sports jacket or blazer.

The lacing and shoe flaps on Derby shoes are sewn on the outside, known as an open lacing system, making them more of a robust look. Unlike Oxfords, Derby shoes come in a larger variety of colors and with a leather sole.

A Derby shoe is a little bit different than the Oxford, but you can wear and style the same way you would style an Oxford. This open lacing system is a little more casual though, so you’ll want to wear these kinds of shoes with some comfortable and fun socks to help your style stand out.

Derby shoes were originally designed for sporting and hunting purposes around the 1850s. But by the 1900s, these Derby shoes were the shoes people would wear out of town.

It makes sense, since Derby shoes strike a good balance between traditional menswear and comfort with its open lacing system and leather sole. 

 

Oxfords vs Debries Comparison Table

Feature	Oxford Shoes	Derby Shoes
Design	Sleek, clean, and minimalistic with a closed lacing system where the flaps are sewn under the shoe.	Robust, slightly more casual with an open lacing system where the flaps are sewn on top of the shoe.
Occasions	Best for formal occasions like business meetings, weddings, and tuxedos. Worn with suits or dress pants.	Versatile; can be worn with suits, trousers, or even jeans. Best for more casual or semi-formal events.
Fit	Tighter, more streamlined fit, often better suited for formal attire.	More comfortable and relaxed fit, offering more room, especially around the laces.
Lacing System	Closed lacing system, where the shoe flaps are sewn under the seam below the laces.	Open lacing system, where the flaps are sewn on top of the shoe, offering more flexibility.
History	Originated in Scotland as a formal shoe. Has long been a classic staple for formal dress shoes.	Originally designed for sporting and hunting, but became more popular for casual, everyday wear by the 1900s.
Color Variety	Typically available in darker, classic colors like black, brown, and oxblood, with a focus on formal colors.	Available in a wider range of colors and materials (suede, leather), offering more style flexibility.
Styling Tips	Pair with a formal suit or tuxedo for a sleek, polished look. Stick to darker colors for business and formal occasions.	Can be worn with both casual and formal outfits. Pair with trousers or jeans, and experiment with fun socks for a modern twist.

 

What to Wear with Derbies

Derby shoes are incredibly versatile and can be styled for both casual and semi-formal occasions.

The open lacing system of derbies gives them a more relaxed and comfortable feel compared to oxfords, making them perfect for a wider range of looks.

• Casual Look: Pair your derbies with denim or chinos for a stylish, laid-back look. Roll up your sleeves or wear a casual shirt or sweater to keep the vibe relaxed. They also work well with casual blazers or sport coats.
• Smart Casual: Combine derbies with tailored trousers and a well-fitted blazer for a smart casual dress code. Choose derbies in leather or suede depending on your personal style, and experiment with fun dress socks or brighter colors to add a modern touch.
• Business Casual: Derbies can be an excellent choice for business casual dress codes. Pair them with dress pants and a slim fit button-down shirt. You can even wear them with a smart sweater or a casual jacket to maintain a polished yet approachable look.

Derby shoes offer a lot of flexibility in terms of color and materials, so feel free to experiment with different textures like suede or leather for various occasions.

What to Wear with Oxfords

Oxfords are the quintessential formal shoe, known for their sleek design and closed lacing system. They are perfect for occasions that demand a higher level of sophistication.

• Formal Wear: When attending a formal or black-tie event or a wedding, black leather oxfords are your best bet. Pair them with a tuxedo or suit for a sharp, elegant look. Stick to traditional black oxfords for a timeless, classic feel. These are our best men's dress shoes for formal occasions.
• Business/Formal Office Attire: For a business conference outfit or office environment with a formal dress code, oxfords are a go-to. Pair them with a suit or dress pants and a slim fit white dress shirt for a polished appearance. Stick with dark-colored shoes, such as black or dark brown, for a business professional look.
• Occasion-Based Styling: Oxfords are ideal for any event where you need to look your best, whether it’s a formal rehearsal dinner outfit, a gala outfit, or a job interview outfit. They add an air of sophistication and refinement to any outfit, so choose oxford shoes when you need to make a lasting impression.

How to Choose Between Derbies and Oxfords

When it comes to selecting the right shoe for an occasion, knowing the difference between derbies and oxfords is key.

Both shoes offer distinct looks and fit different style preferences, so it's important to consider the formality of the event, your outfit, and personal style when deciding which pair to wear.

Formality of the Event

• Oxford Shoes: These are the most formal of the two options, making them the ideal choice for events that require elegance and sophistication. Think of black-tie events, weddings, or corporate meetings. Oxfords should be your go-to when the occasion demands a sharp, polished appearance.
• Derby Shoes: While still appropriate for semi-formal and smart-casual occasions, derbies are more versatile. They're perfect for business casual, cocktail party outfits, or a date night out. If you’re attending an event where you want a touch of formality but with a bit of relaxed flair, derbies are a great choice.
  

Outfit Compatibility

• Oxford Shoes: Oxfords pair beautifully with suits, tuxedos, and formal dress attire. Their sleek, clean design works best with a well-tailored outfit, helping you achieve a sophisticated, put-together look. If you're wearing a 3-piece suit or formal jacket, oxfords will complete your outfit with finesse.
• Derby Shoes: The open lacing system on derbies makes them ideal for pairing with a wider range of outfits. You can wear them with a suit, but they also look great with more casual looks, such as jeans, chinos, or even blazers. Their slightly more relaxed aesthetic allows for more flexibility in styling, making them a better choice for smart-casual or weekend wear.

Choose Oxford shoes if you have a formal event, need to look sharp in business settings, or want a classic, polished style with a suit.

Choose Derby shoes if you want a more versatile shoe that can be dressed up or down, perfect for business casual, smart-casual, or casual occasions.

Conclusion

Wearing men’s footwear when it comes to oxford and derby shoes doesn’t have to be a challenge.

Which formal shoes you choose largely depends on what you’re going to be wearing them with. Now that you know how to wear them don't forget to learn how to match your socks.

If you liked this article, check out our other guides on the best boat shoes and how to clean shoes.

 

FAQs for oxfords vs derby shoes

1. What is the difference between Derbies and Oxfords?

The main difference between derby shoes and oxford shoes lies in their lacing systems. Derby shoes feature an open lacing system, where the eyelets (holes for the laces) are sewn on top of the shoe flaps, giving them a more relaxed and versatile look.

Oxfords, on the other hand, have closed laces, where the eyelets are sewn under the shoe flaps, creating a more formal and streamlined design.

2. Can I wear derby shoes with a suit?

Yes, you can wear derby shoes with a suit, especially for business casual or smart-casual occasions. The versatility of derbies makes them a good match for tailored suits, offering a slightly more relaxed, but still sharp look.

If you're aiming for a more formal appearance, oxfords would be a better option, but derbies are a great choice if you want to add a touch of style and comfort without sacrificing sophistication.

3. Why are Oxfords not Brogues?

Oxfords and brogues are two different types of shoes, though they can sometimes overlap. Oxfords are known for their sleek, clean design with a closed lacing system, whereas brogues are a type of shoe characterized by decorative perforations or "broguing" along the edges.

Oxfords can be made with or without brogue detailing, but not all oxfords are brogues. Brogues can be either oxfords or derbies depending on the lacing system.

4. Can Oxfords be worn casually?

While oxfords are traditionally worn for formal events and business settings, they can be worn casually. 

However, for a truly laid-back vibe, Derby shoes or other casual shoes are generally a better choice. If you're wearing oxfords casually, make sure the outfit is more relaxed and the oxfords are either in a lighter color or suede for a less formal appearance.